PHOTO AUBUM BELOW
The Salinas de la Ramona (or of la Tía (aunt) Ramona as they are affectionately known locally), nestles in the shadow of the flank of the Molino which was devastated by fire in September 2011 on the night of the annual pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Hope.
The local forestry squad cut down the stricken trees shortly after the fire and, although some have been used to form “water breaks” in crannies and canyons sculpted into the mountainsides, many were just left where they lay. It is a sad cemetery for nature´s giants burned in a “decoy fire” by two young delinquents in a bid to keep the emergency services busy while they ripped copper cable out of abandoned warehouses on a local industrial estate. A combination of greed and complete folly which has rendered the once pine clad mountain slopes into a dusty desert.
There is a clear line where the fire ended along the opposite bank of the reservoir as approached from the main Mula Road. Green succulent foliage and tall cool pines which shade the green blue waters of the reservoir abruptly dissolve into blackened earth and enormous piles of dead tree trunks and blackened branches too remote, too far and on slopes too steep for either the forestry squad to remove or for the locals to exploit as winter fuel. On the left hand side of the road to the reservoir, before the tree cemetery, is a small sign “Las Salinas de la Ramona.”
We have got into the habit of taking our two enormous dogs, mastiff and husky mixes, on long walks every Sunday. We have discovered hidden paths and passes through the mountains which, in spring, transform into a strange ornamental garden where tall pink fountains of flowers spring out of the rocks and tiny petals of an outrageous royal blue, decadent yellow, purple and blood red peek out from under practically every stone, anxious to make the most of their short lives between the end of winter and the onslaught of the Calasparra sun.
We have also explored the wild and wonderful far banks of the stunning Quipar reservoir discovering islands, massive eucalyptus trees, sand caves, nesting herons and, of course, the tiny but stunning dam where the water is forced spectacularly through a crack in the rocks.
But by May this year the temperature in Calasparra is already in the high 30’s and mountain walking is really out of the question so we have started looking for a cooler alternatives. Then we remembered our long postponed date with the Salinas del Ramona.
The “Salinas” are open cast salt mines, once the main source of income for the area, which consist of a series of enormous shallow evaporation and crystallization tanks built to exploit the subterranean salt water of the “Barranco (ravine) del Salero.”
During the 17th and 18th century the mines were considered the “motor” of the local economy and the salt was used for pellets for pigs and sheep although a small amount was also refined for human consumption.
The water flows down to the mine through a series of man made wooden channels and pipes connected to holes carved into the mountains or meanders along the surface of the ravine. A quick thumb and lick test confirms the water is incredibly salty.
Deep wells of subterranean water are clearly visible through holes in the sides of the ravine where a million tiny salt flakes glisten in the sunlight or you can break a small lump off the soft walls and it will glimmer in your hand like some weird precious stone.
This natural saltwater trickling down the mountains is also responsible for giving the waters of the reservoir of Alfonso XIII its slightly salty taste.
As you approach the mines the derelict buildings of the “Guard’s house” and the warehouse are a sad reminder that this historic site has been abandoned. However, the network of shallow tanks is strangely well preserved. Apparently, it took some 21 days for the water to evaporate in the tanks and the salt to crystallize: a process only possible in temperatures of 35 to 40 degrees centigrade!
If you walk upstream into the ravine you will see the remains of the wooden water canals and the gleaming red walls. On the left hand side of the ravine there are several holes in the rockface where the subterranean water is clearly visible.
We walked along the ravine for some distance, hopping from one side to the other in order to follow the stream. The area is quite seriously overgrown but the determined hiker can reach deep into the mountains with the sides of the canyon towering above. At times the walk opens up into a glorious green leafy glade full of birdsong and sunshine but then suddenly you are climbing over massive stones and pushing through thick undergrowth again.
We did not reach the end of the ravine although we walked for a couple of hours and could clearly see the flank of the Molino towering in front of us. We actually climbed up the side and attempted to return by walking across the mountains back to the mines. However, on reflection I would recommend that you retrace your steps along the canyon. The mountains in this area are extremely dangerous, full of vertical drops and high climbs. The terrain makes it virtually impossible to retrace your route along the top of the ravine and we were extremely lucky to get home in one piece and not to get lost.
The natural minerals, the wildlife, including invertebrates, algae and other microorganisms which live in very salty water plus the physical remains of human activity make it an area of ecological, cultural and historical significance. However, unless it is restored and maintained, possibly as a tourist resource, its value will be lost for future generations.
